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Last Updated :
11 Nov 2009
There are heaps of problems
that may occur to any motorcycle not just the Hayabusa. Many problems
are the result of poor maintenance and/or performance related modifications.
However there are those that occur from wear and tear. Here's a list and some successful problems/solutions tried by various owners and
results good or otherwise of their solutions!
If you have any to add or know of successful solutions pls mail them. I do not
include Emails on the page any longer to avoid you being spammed.
The
information here is as is it may or may
not prove useful or otherwise. I always recommend that you should get your
problem looked at by a properly qualified mechanic.
Index of Problems
Inaccurate
Speedo reading
Spot and Fog lights
Oxygen Sensor Issues
Funny noises
Backfire problems
Solve the Grabby
Clutch Prob if you have one
Failure to start in high temperatures after a long ride.
General/Stuttering problems
High
altitude
stuttering.
FI light and rough
running.
Clutch Fluid leaking
Clunk noise on
standing start.
How to fix the vibey
screen (From Sept 1999 Archives)
Gear
changing or gearbox problems.
Excessive
Tyre/Tire wear.
Engine
running and electrical problems.
After market
pipes/exhausts
As with all bikes, there is a high
possibility that the fitting of aftermarket pipes will effect performance. This was
particularly true when most bikes still had Carbs.
Bikes in particular those like the Hayabusa
are extreme performance machines.
Let's face it extracting at least to 130Kw and 138Nm from 1298cc in such a small package
is quite an achievement. Needless to say that it can do it any and any time you wish
reliability and does not cost the earth to run is saying something about the
level of technology.
Hence engine tuning to meeting all the
planets different pollution regulation you'd expect the tuning of the bike to be pretty
much complicated. Changing any one of the components eg. exhausts which play a large
part in the performance equation you'd expect certain problems to occur.
Some of the common problems include :
The bike becomes hesitant when throttling
on.
At certain revs extra power comes through rather than being having a smooth build,
but then levels off then powers on again and so forth.
Strong petrol smell and increased fuel consumption.
Spot and Fog
lights
Does any have any experience
with the installation of Fog or spots lights to their bike ?
If so any suggestions on brand and type and wattages so the bike's battery and electrics
don't fry themselves ?
Oxygen Sensor
European and American Hayabusa
models differ in various techincal details. An owner Andy N is having problems with
the FI warning staying on his Euro spec Oxygen Sensor presumably Cat equiped Hayabusa. He
has replaced the stock exhaust system, which is why the warning appears. Anyone who
knows how, why, etc... suggestions feel free to email me.
Funny Noises
Bikes make lots of
noise. With experience you'll be able to tell the health of your bike by the noises
it makes and the way it rides. I have had a number of mails over the years from
owners experiencing various noises which do not appear normal.
Some include whining from the fuel tank,
fuel pump, brake buzzes etc... The solutions to these are not easy to determine as
some can be relative in nature and dependent on modifications done to your bike. Eg.
You may be more sensitive to fuel smells or hearing. The best solution to these
problems to to contact your servicing mechanic. If you're servicing mechanic does
not acknowledge the noise get them to compare your bike with another this will usually
enable them to tell the difference. If not I guess the only solution would be to try
another mechanic or specialist outfit.
If you have any and know the solutions pls
email them ! - Thanks
Backfire problems
1- The choke is mal adjusted
or out of adjustment.
2- The fuel may be old.
3- The fuel lines are kinked.
4- The fuel filters may be clogged up due to being left standing for so long.
If your bike is effected by a grabby clutch this my be your
solution.
A grabby clutch can afflict any bike. There are a number of
solutions to this particular problem.
Clean the lever and cable assembly.
If you are using fully synthetic oil it
apparently is a very good lubricator hence the extra bike.
Change to oil to a semi-synthetic version to cure the problem. Sent in by
Mike B
Starting problems after hot run and FI being displayed.
This report has 2 parts :
- Some 2001 riders have reported that the
bike has trouble re-starting after hot running.
- Some have the 'FI' appearing on the clock display. Which usually means ECU
problems.
This occurs whilst riding the bike. After resting for 5-10 minutes the bike
restarts again with no problems and/or the FI disappers. I have recieved 3 such
reports.
If you are experiencing similar probs send a
description and or solution to the usual address.
Stuttering problems after stopping at
traffic lights.
- All the runing problems associate with
stopping at traffic lights, waiting
in traffic, not starting when hot etc I cured on my machine by moving the
Input Air Temperature Sensor (bottom LHS of airbox) to the ram air tube
(about 1 inch left of the fuse box)
- Problem is when the IATS gets hot, it leans the mixture out. You take the
machine for a ride, then try to hold the IATS in your hand.....TOO HOT!!!!!
- I plugged the vacant hole with a plastic bolt and a dab of silicone sealant.
- Melted a hole in the Ram air duct with the tip of a soldering iron, just
large enough so that with lots of trying the IATS would screw into the
ducting.
For more good stuff : Check www.themotorhead.com
Thnks Marc
Stuttering problems 2.
Several things help this problem:
- synchronize the throttle bodies;
- clean the throttle bodies: this involves cleaning the butterflies with "q"
tips;
- install the TRE by Ivan, this is a "timing retard eliminator";
- install the-motor-head-air-box-mod, all longs;
- remove and clean injectors with carb spray;
Recommended by Alan.
Stuttering problems 3.
- Check the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) if
your are encountering on/off throttle stuttering.
- Another reason for backfire is people
fitting aftermarket exhausts without
removing the PAIR valve system, where fitted of course. (PAIR is not fitted
in all markets.) The reason the backfires occur is full-systems make Busa's
run rich in the midrange (dunno why, common sense would say they'll run lean
but they don't!!) and the PAIR valves job is to stuff air down the exhaust
headers in order to burn-off any unburned mixture - which there will be
loads more of thanks to the rich running...
- To stop the Oxygen sensor code after replacing the stock exhaust on effected
models, pull the brown and black wire going into the ECU. This will default
it to "open loop" operation. The oxygen sensor loop only alters the mixture
at tickover anyway.
Info provided by 'DM' - Dangermouse ! -
Thank You.
Clutch fluid leaking.
Clutch fluid leaking from
around the piston seal.
The problem came from dirt entering around the piston when the piston is in the retracted
position, causing corrosion around the bore and enabling fluid to leak past the seal, to
solve this problem there should be a rubber gaitor around the cylinder and clutch push
rod, stopping dirt entering. Thanks to John
'Clunk' noise on standing start.
Some Hayabusa's develop a
clunking noise when accelerating from a standing start. Initially it may sound like
the cushes from the rear or some diagnose it as a damaged clutch basket. So to save
you expense adjust the chain as per the handbook first. The adjustment is not a
large one either- a few millimeters. You may be surprised that it actually solves the
problem.
Don't forget you ride the fastest prob bike in the world huge power means more rider
maintenance.
Inaccurate speedo.
This is a huge problem I feel as it
affects almost all bikes. I can understand why speedo are inaccurate
but with the current state of technology I can't see why a solution hasn't
been found. Nevertheless I've found a perfect solution and that's
using a GPS road warning system. Its easy to find to the Hayabusa and
gives a much more accurate measurement of how fast you are actually going.
Check out my review of one model that you could use
GPS301 Review.
How to fix the Vibey screen.
Update 12 / 9 / 1999 :
The bike has just had its 2nd service (about 5500km). The most noticeable thing
about the bike after the service was the gear change. Its improved dramatically, I
must ask them what they did ! Since then it hasn't missed the 5-6 change and it
gives a nice precise click-click sound like the old GSX-R when changing gears.
However the screen now vibrates at different revs. So I attempted to fix it my self
:
The screen is secured to the
fairing by 2 screws near the mirror. Taking the securing nut out was easy, using the
standard toolkit but the rubber bit is another story. The rubber bit is NOT a
washer. It's a plastic tube that has a lump in the middle. The holding nut is
moulded inside this tube. You must pull out the tube washer before taking the
screen off, its about 1.5 cm long. When the nut is tightened the rubber
compresses hence tightening the screen.
Anyway, once the tube
washer is taken out, the screen can be pulled off by sitting on the seat and pulling it
towards you. Once out of the fairing you will see the recessed edges of the screen
that slots into the fairing. I used electrical tape to over ALL the edges (at least
2 layers). Don't use too much or you'll be able to see the tape when the screen is
inserted back and the fit will be really tight and the securing nut will not be able to be
screwed back in. Make sure ALL the edges have been covered or the screen will
vibrate in a different place.
Once completed insert the screen
back into the fairing aligning the securing holes. The tube washer can then be
inserted back in. You may find this difficult because when you try to push the tube
in the lump expands making the tube wider hence too big. The secret is to loosely
put the bolt into the tube and nut place it into the fairing hole and with the hex-tool
from the top and push the tube in. If aligned correctly the tube goes in without any
effort. Why, put placing the bolt in and pushing from the top expands the tube,
making it thinner, the lump in the middle flattens out ! Tighten the screen and go
for a test spin. hopefully if you've taped the right areas on the screen the
vibration should disappear. Well, it worked for me!
Difficulty changing
gears ?
I want to start off by saying that
the gear boxes on the Hayabusa when new are hard to slot in. Over time it
does wear in as per normal bikes. As you can see from my 1999 post.
There are lots of reasons for this but its all common sense really.
Nothing to worry about.
The only reports
I've heard of Hayabusa gearbox especially breaking is due to heavy modification to the
gearbox itself. Personally - I can't see the point of changing the gear
ratios (actual cog) as that is one one of the reasons it can go as fast as it
does.
Excessive tire/tyre wear ?
If you are experiencing excessive
tyre wear you may just be a hard rider doing too many figure 8 or Os!
Seriously though - you can increase the tyre pressures by at least 5psi or more
from the recommended to reduce wear - in normal riding. Even try different
suspension settings - that is why they are adjustable!
Engine running and electrical
problems ?
As motorcycle electrics gets more
advanced so too the number of problems that can occur. However over the
years thanks to car developments it is unlikely that the ECU that controls a
motorcycle's engine, eg. spark plugs, fuel injection and so forth would the
cause. So if you encounter strange problems like miss-fires, cut outs and
so forth it is usually caused by something else.
Assuming your bike has remained in
standard trim here's a quick guide to diagnose or fix what could be electrical
problems. Remember to always check the obvious especially on older models.
Miss-firing can be caused by kinked
fuel hoses. (I should know mine had one) When you do check the hoses
it may not look it but consider replacing various hoses anyway.
Consider replacing the spark plugs and leads as a preventative measure. So
check that operation of the engine kill switch it could just be a faulty or
corroded contact here. (I should know I had a similar problem - how
embarrassing). Spray the internals with WD40 or similar.
Another thing to consider is the
battery. After 3 years it will deteriorate, after 4 - well I consider
replacement. Sure not essential by could be the cause of your problems.
Check the battery contacts and also the various grounding cables while your
there.
Other obvious things to check is the
fuse box! Sure you may not have ridden in the rain or left it outside but
because it is a dry location you may find that ants or other insects have
decided to call it home.
If you don't ride often or ride
short distances the fuel in you tank may go off - it's not an urban myth.
Drain the tank and start again. The instructions are in the manual.
I've had an email this year saying that they had to replace the fuel injectors.
Deterioration caused by fuel... Then again modern petrol has cleaning
additives...
So give things try if you think you
have running or electrical problems. |
